
WOODBURNING FROM A - Z
l BURNING MATERIALS & SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WORK IN PROGRESS
l
GOURD
PYROGRAPHY
l
PYROGRAPHY SUPPLIES & TOOLS
SOLID
POINT WOODBURNING TIPS
l
RAZERTIP PENS
l COLWOOD
PENS
USING PHOTOGRAPHS AS PATTERNS
l
USING COLOR IN WOODBURNINGS
l
GOURD CRAFTS 101 TUTORIAL
BURNING MATERIALS &
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
|
What can you woodburn?
Woodburning Pyrography is done on a
variety of surfaces in addition to wood, but the material you choose is
very important. Some surfaces can be toxic when burned and can
cause serious harm. One of the best woods to burn is basswood.
It is soft and has very little grain. Italian poplar is another nice
wood and wonderful for framing your work when it’s complete. Birch
plywood is also another good wood, but it is more difficult due to its
having a coarse grain and occasional flaws to deal with. But when
burning on plywood caution must be taken. There are many other woods
that are good, but be sure that you determine which ones are safe and
which are not.
Burning on some woods can be potentially
dangerous to your health....maybe not today, it might take years for you
or those around you to develop serious health problems as a result of
working on dangerous materials.
When burning on wood, I
primarily use lighter woods such as basswood, maple, birch and Italian
poplar because I like the wonderful contrast between the light wood and
the burned design. Some people use darker woods, but to me the
burning seems to fade into the wood with darker or stained woods.
Again, this is personal preference and it does not mean that my way is the
only or best way.
Safe woods to burn
Basswood is one of
the most popular woods used by woodburners. It is a great
choice for woodburning because it's easy to burn, has very little grain
and it burns beautifully. You get such a rich, crisp contrast
between the wood and the deep color of the burning. It is available
in all shapes and sizes. The slabs and rounds with bark around the edges
are great for "western" themes, wildlife and rustic designs.
Italian poplar plywood
is also very light in color and has very even, smooth grain. It's
easy to woodburn on and like the basswood creates a pleasing light
background against the deep rich color of the burning. It creates a
nicely finished piece that is suitable for framing. Be cautious when
burning on plywood not to burn deep into the glue which can cause health
problems.
Birch plywood is
another wood that is commonly used for woodburning but it has an uneven
grain and is harder to burn on than the Italian poplar or basswood.
It is more challenging to use because of the grain and since it is a
darker wood there is not as much contrast. Burning on birch will require a
higher temp on the burner than burning on italian poplar and basswood. Be cautious when burning on
plywood not to burn deep into the glue which can cause health problems.
Maple is bit darker
and a hard wood but it produces wonderful results when burning.
Burning on maple will also require a higher temp on the woodburner.
Other woods that are safe
include tupelo and holly. There are probably many others but these
are woods that are generally safe to work with.
A note of precaution when
burning on plywood....do not burn deep into the glue layer as it can
be toxic. If you are new burner and unsure of your ability to
control the burner start out on a piece of basswood until you gain some
control.
Everything you wanted to
know about American Basswood
American Basswood is found
throughout central US and East to Main. The largest concentrations
grow in the Lake states. Northern (northern Minnesota, northern
Wisconsin and upper Michigan) basswood grows slower and provides a
finer-textured wood that is sought after for carving and burning.
The best quality basswood
for carving and burning is harvested during the dormant season (November
through March in the lake states). During this period the sap is not
flowing and wood that is harvested during this time will be very light
colored, fine grained and bark that does not readily fall off.
Summer cut basswood often produces a pale yellow color in the lumber.
Sugar in the basswood logs reacts with heat and in most cases causes the
wood to turn pale yellow if not sawn within two weeks of being harvested.
Most of the craft quality
wood is the wood that is spring or summer cut. If you compare a
piece of winter cut wood versus spring or summer cut the difference is
very noticeable. A good example of summer cut basswood is the planks
and rounds found in most craft stores sold under the name of Walnut
Hollow. The wood is darker and yellow versus the winter cut wood
which is almost white or cream color.
Another difference you will
find when you buy better quality winter cut basswood is that it is cut
thicker than the craft quality and there will be far less (if any) flaws
and black marks through out the wood.
More about basswood
boards and rounds with bark on the edges
Woodburners and relief
carvers often like using bark boards with bark on the edges or rounds with
the bark all around. In order for the bark to adhere to these
products, the logs MUST be harvested and sawn during the dormant season.
Sawing them during the spring and summer when the sap is moving up and
down the tree will cause the bark to slip, resulting in the bark falling
off.
The ovals and rounds must be
dried slowly, preferably in a cool area, to prevent cracking or splitting.
They also must be spaced appropriately where air can move around them to
prevent staining.
So for woodburning getting
winter cut is much preferred over summer cut basswood. You will end
up getting much clearer wood and it won't cost much more for a better
quality wood.
Wood Toxicity
This is a subject that I
could devote an entire book to, but will just cover nominally here and
give you some resources to do more research.
The main hazard to be wary
of is the extremely fine wood dust when sanding the wood or in some cases
the pitch/sap or resin that emits harmful fumes when burning. Some
research indicates that long-term exposure to the dust and fumes from
these woods can cause asthma or increase the risk of more serious
illnesses, such as nasal cancer. Molds can also trigger allergic
reactions, and you should take extra precautions when using spalted
materials.
Some woods that are listed
as toxic, such as ash, beech, birch and spalted maple are due to fungal
contamination rather than the wood chemistry itself. Woods such as
cedar or pine contain resins or oils that emit toxic odors when
burned and may cause serious respiratory problems when inhaled. If
you must use some of these woods, be sure to take precautions, such as
wearing a good dust mask and/or gloves when sanding to prevent a rash
between your fingers.
NOTICE: Several
years ago I received a call from a customer in Nebraska. He asked me
about good woods to burn on and he told me he bought a large quantity of
cedar to burn on. I warned him of the risks and I offered some
suggestions on precautions he could take and he agreed to try my
suggestions. The following week he called back and told me that
he had followed my instructions completely and vented the fumes out a
window but he told me that the fumes still lingered. The following
weekend his young son came to visit and the boy had difficulty breathing
within minutes of entering his apartment. He was very upset, not to
mention sick about the impact on his son and agreed that it just wasn't
worth the risk.
Remember, that the effects
of burning on some of these materials doesn't just affect you so please be
safe!
For addition information on
wood toxicity, please do some research on your own. There are lots
of resources on the subject. The chart listed below has
been passed around through the woodcarving community for many years and
can also provide some valuable information. Some woods that were not
on this original list but that have been known to cause problems,
especially to woodburners have been added.
|
The following chart appeared in American Woodturner Magazine, June 1990, it was reprinted from Art Hazards News Vol. 13 No.5, compiled by Robert Woodcock, RN, BSN, CEN. I have added a several wood's to this list and will continue to do so as we learn about other woods that may pose health risks.
The information contained in this chart is furnished free of charge and is based on public domain information that is believed
to be reliable. Nedra Denison and Sawdust Connection makes no warranty as to the completeness or accuracy thereof.
The information is to be used at an individual's own risk.
|
Wood
|
Reaction
|
Site
|
Potency
|
Source
|
Incidence
|
| Bald
Cypress |
sensitizer
|
respiratory
|
+
|
dust
|
Rare
|
| Balsam
Fir |
sensitizer |
eyes, skin
|
+
|
leaves, bark
|
Common
|
| Beech |
sensitizer,
nasopharyngeal cancer
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
++
|
leaves, bark, dust
|
Common |
| Birch |
sensitizer
|
respiratory
|
++
|
wood, dust
|
Common |
| Black
Locust |
irritant, nausea
|
eyes, skin |
+++
|
leaves, bark
|
Common |
|
Blackwood |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin |
++
|
wood, dust
|
Common |
|
Boxwood |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin |
++
|
wood, dust
|
Common |
|
Camphor (laurel) |
sensitizer
|
respiratory |
+++ |
resin |
Common |
| Cashew |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin |
+
|
wood, dust
|
Rare |
| Cedar,
west red |
irritant,
sensitizer
|
skin, respiratory |
+++ |
dust, leaves, bark,
resin |
Common |
|
Cocobolo |
irritant,
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
+++
|
wood, dust
|
Common |
| Dahoma |
irritant
|
eyes, skin |
++
|
wood, dust |
Common |
| Ebony |
irritant,
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin |
++
|
wood, dust |
Common |
| Elm |
irritant
|
eyes, skin |
+
|
dust
|
Rare |
|
Goncalo Alves |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin |
++
|
wood, dust |
Rare |
|
Greenheart |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin |
+++
|
wood, dust |
Common |
|
Hemlock |
nasopharyngeal cancer
|
respiratory
|
?
|
dust
|
Uncommon |
| Iroko |
irritant,
sensitizer ,
pneumonitis
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
+++
|
wood, dust |
Common |
|
Mahogany |
sensitizer
|
skin, respiratory
|
+
|
dist
|
Uncommon |
|
Mansonia |
Irritant, sensitizer,
nausea
|
eyes, skin
|
+++
+
|
wood, dust |
Common |
| Maple
(Spalted) |
sensitizer ,
pneumonitis
|
respiratory
|
+++
|
dust
|
Common |
| Mimosa |
nausea
|
gastrointestinal |
?
|
leaves, bark
|
Uncommon |
| Myrtle |
sensitizer
|
respiratory
|
++
|
leaves, bark, dust
|
Common |
| Oak |
sensitizer
nasopharyngeal cancer
|
eyes, skin |
++
?
|
leaves, bark, dust
|
Rare
|
| Obeche |
irritant,
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
+++
|
wood, dust
|
Common |
|
Oleander |
direct toxin
|
cardiac
|
++++
|
dust, leaves, bark,
wood
|
Common |
|
Olivewood |
irritant,
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
+++
|
wood, dust |
Common |
| Opepe |
sensitizer
|
respiratory
|
+
|
dust
|
Rare |
| Padauk |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
+
|
wood, dust |
Rare |
| Pau
Ferro |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin
|
+
|
wood, dust |
Rare |
| Peroba
Rosa |
Irritant, nausea
|
respiratory
|
++
|
wood, dust |
Uncommon |
| Pine |
sensitizer,
pneumonitis,
nasopharyngeal cancer, asthma |
respiratory, eyes |
++ |
sap/pitch |
Common |
|
Purpleheart |
nausea
|
|
++
|
wood, dust |
Common |
|
Quebracho |
irritant,
nasopharyngeal cancer,
nausea
|
respiratory
|
++
?
|
leaves, bark, dust
|
Common
|
|
Redwood |
sensitizer ,
pneumonitis,
nasopharyngeal cancer
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
++
?
|
dust
|
Rare
|
|
Rosewoods |
irritant,
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
++++
|
wood, dust |
Uncommon |
|
Satinwood |
irritant
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
+++
|
wood, dust |
Common |
|
Sassafras |
sensitizer, direct
toxin, nausea, nasopharyngeal cancer
|
respiratory
|
+
+
?
|
dust, leaves, bark,
wood
|
Rare
|
|
Sequoia |
irritant
|
respiratory
|
+
|
dust
|
Rare |
|
Snakewood |
irritant
|
respiratory |
++
|
wood, dust |
Rare |
| Spruce |
sensitizer
|
respiratory
|
+
|
wood, dust |
Rare |
|
Walnut, Black |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin |
++
|
wood, dust |
Common |
| Wenge |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
+
|
wood, dust |
Common |
| Willow |
sensitizer, nausea
|
respiratory
|
+
|
dust, leaves, bark,
wood
|
Uncommon
|
|
Western Red Cedar |
sensitizer
|
respiratory |
+++
|
dust, leaves, bark
|
Common |
| Teak |
sensitizer,
pneumonitis
|
eyes, skin,
respiratory
|
++
|
dust
|
Common |
| Yew |
irritant, direct
toxin,
nasopharyngeal cancer,
nausea
|
eyes, skin
|
++
++++
|
wood, dust |
Common |
|
Zebrawood |
sensitizer
|
eyes, skin |
++
|
wood, dust |
Rare |
References:
1. Woods Toxic to Man,
author unknown
2. "Toxic Woods". ,Woods,
B., Calnan, C.D., Br. Journal of Dermatology, 1976
3. ILO Encyclopedia of
Occupational Health and Safety, 1983
4. AMA Handbook of Poisonous
and Injurious Plants, Lame, K., McAnn, M., AMA, 1985
5. Poisondex, Micromedix
Inc., 1990
Useful resources
regarding wood toxicity
some of this information
might be repetitive but I think the more informed you are, the safer you
will be when you begin burning. The first link was written by a
pulmonary doctor. I think this is one of the most valuable links
here.
http://www.riparia.org/toxic_woods.htm
http://www.woodturner.org/resources/toxicity.cfm
http://www.thewoodbox.com/data/wood/toxicityinfo.htm
http://www.awwg.org/awg_woodtoxicity.htm
http://www.womeninwoodworking.com/startingarchive/startingpoints8.cfm
|
|
Some materials that are
not safe to burn
DO NOT burn on
pressure-treated wood. It is treated with chemicals that, although safely
bound in the wood fibers for construction purposes, are inherently
dangerous to woodworkers and woodburners.
DO NOT burn on spalted or medium density fiber board (MDF) are unsafe to burn. They
are loaded with chemicals and formaldehyde that are unsafe and should not be used for
pyrography.
DO NOT burn on
any type of plastic, acrylic, Plexiglass, Lucite, etc. They are also chemicals that will
emit fumes that can cause serious harm. If you must do this, please do it
outdoors! I don't care what they call it, it's plastic, it's chemicals
and it's TOXIC!!!! This includes acrylic mirrors and press and seal
wrap which many people are using transfer patterns and then burn right
through it.
DO NOT burn on
any type of treated wood: stained, painted, sealed with a finish.
If you must use this type of wood be sure that you have thoroughly
sanded it to remove all traces and are burning on BARE wood.
I have spoken with
manufacturers of plastics and acrylics and they stress the fact that
plastic is composed of chemical and is toxic when burned. So I urge
people to find safer methods of transferring patterns and safer things to
burn. Plastic in any form was not invented for people to burn so
please be safe!
Other materials
that are fun and safe to burn
Burning on many
plywood, such as birch and Italian poplar are safe but precautions must
be taken to avoid burning through the wood into the glue layer which can
be toxic and the fumes can be harmful.
Gourds are nice to
work on, but a nominal challenge, because of the curvature and slick
surface. You can sometimes find gourds that are craft-ready, so you
don’t have as much preparation to do. Burning on gourds does require
a hotter temperature than burning on wood and you will need to ensure that
you keep your tip clean at all times because you will accumulate more
carbon and material from the gourd than from wood. Also keep in mind that
burning or carving gourds can also cause respiratory problems so use a
mask when working with gourds and work in a well-ventilated area.
The biggest problem comes when you cut them open and carve or sand inside
or burn deep past the "skin". Be careful to wear an
appropriate mask when working with gourds and do it away outside the
house.
Leather is another nice
material, but you must ensure that you are only using leather that is
oil/vegetable-tanned. You can usually find this at Tandy Leather and
many other suppliers.
Chrome or metal tanned leather can produce dangerous fumes.
Burning on leather requires a slightly cooler pen than burning on
wood but, and again you must ensure that you keep your tip clean.
Please check out the
tutorial "Woodburning from A-Z" for more
information on leather burning.
Tagua nuts, also
known as “nature’s ivory”, are fun and interesting to use.
Burning on these little nuts requires very fine-tipped pens, which are
available from Razertip and some other companies.
Canvas is my new best
friend. It's fun to burn but please make sure the canvas is
untreated. Also use a lower temperature and be sure to put it on top
of a solid surface and iron the canvas before you start burning.
You can burn on any surface
that is created from natural fibers such as paper, velum, bamboo,
canvas, cloth...as long as they are not treated with anything.
Other important safety
precautions
The burning tips on the pens are
hot and care should be taken when using them to avoid injury!
Always
turn off your
burner when you stop burning. NEVER walk away from your burner when it is
turned on. That’s an accident waiting to happen.
Do not leave
children unsupervised near the pyrography tools.
To avoid
accidents (and yes, they do happen!) keep your work area clean
Be sure you work in a well
ventilated room.
You can use an
inexpensive computer fan to move the smoke away from your project without
interfering with the temperature of the burning pen.
If unsure about
the safety of burning on any particular material, please check the
MSDS
sheets before burning.
I learned the hard way
about the safety of burning on synthetic materials, so my final word here
is to use extreme caution and do not burn on synthetic materials such as
acrylic, which contain chemicals that are toxic when burned and can cause
serious harm. If you are unsure of the safety, do your own research before
burning anything you are unsure of.
Do not rely on information
from other people without verifying the safety factors yourself from an
expert in the field. Just
because someone else has done it, doesn’t make it safe. While it may
be fun working on some materials, many are not safe when subjected to the
intense heat of a burner. It may seem safe, but it also sometimes
takes years for symptoms to show up and then it's too late. An example is
people who have been exposed to asbestos...it took years before they
developed serious complications and by then it was too late to reverse the
damage that had been done. So, please be safe!
Bottom line is...do not burn
on any man-made compounds....plastics, composite boards, glues, acrylics,
anything of unknown origin, etc. If you are unsure if it has already
been treated or a finish has already been applied DON'T BURN IT!
Pyrography is
fun, as long as you take proper precautions. Be Safe!
If you are aware of any
other materials or woods that should be added to this list
please let me know
Happy Burning©!
Nedra
COPYRIGHT INFORMATION
No portion of the printed
book "Pyrography 101" or the web pages containing "Pyrography 101"
tutorials may be copied, reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted
in any form or by any means without prior permission of the publisher and
copyright owner.
Material from this site may
not be, in part or in whole be distributed, redistributed, published,
republished, copied, reproduced, altered or modified and sold or otherwise
made available to others in any form for any purposes whatsoever.
Updated 7/5/08
|
|